As you may have gathered, Hong Kong can be very crowded. But there is definitely peace and quiet to be had, if you’re willing to look. On this trip (and in the past), we’ve sought out locations of peace and solitude. Here’s what we’ve found.

Discovery Bay

My cousin mentioned to me that he had visited Discovery Bay with his wife and son on one of his off days during the break. We needed to find some space so we decided to pay it a visit. We grabbed a ferry from the Central Piers (Pier 3) and took a short twenty-five minute ride to Discovery Bay.

It turns out Discovery Bay is home to a ton of expats. It’s also very beautiful and very empty. There are restaurants, a nice beach, and some paths to walk. You can’t actually go too far unless you’re a resident. Doesn’t sound too great?

Maybe not, but when you are surrounded by thousands of people all the time in Hong Kong, Discovery Bay feels like a breath of fresh air. It’s obviously it’s own little world – people speak English by default, tons of obviously rich foreigners – but it’s still tough not to enjoy it despite it not feeling like “authentic” Hong Kong.

M had a great time at Discovery Bay. She got her first taste of walking on the beach and seawater. I think anyone who has kids has experienced this – kid hates sand, kid starts getting used to sand, kid starts enjoying sand, kid really enjoys dipping toes in water. We had a great time.

There was also a nice playground on the beach with a huge slide that I may or may not have pushed M down. She enjoyed it. 🙂 But we mostly just spent our day walking around, enjoying the sunshine and space. There are also a few shops to browse if you’re tired of the outdoors.

Kowloon Park

Just a short walk from our hotel was Kowloon Park. To be honest, Kowloon Park can be kind of crowded, but it’s still a nice green space in a busy city. It’s also huge. There are nice things like ponds with flamingos and the like, and it’s a nice place to walk without bumping into people every two seconds.

But our real discovery was something called the Harbour View Observation Deck. We found it just by wandering and wandering since M was asleep in the stroller again.

The sun was setting and the deck boasted some incredible views of the harbor at dusk. It also was super quiet, there were barely any people there. Basically it was a peaceful little corner where you could enjoy the skyline of Hong Kong without a crush of people like at the Avenue of Stars. It was near some of the cruise ship terminals so the view wasn’t totally unobstructed, but it was still well worth a visit.

One drawback to Kowloon Park is the only elevator access is at the north end (near Jordan instead of TST). We carried M’s stroller all the way up three flights of stairs to get up there. Something to bear in mind if you’re thinking of visiting.

Hong Kong Wetland Park

A little caveat for this one. We visited this in the Summer of 2010 in the searing heat, so it could have been quiet because of that. But it’s pretty far out and you need to take the light rail so I think it’s probably never super crowded. Not like TST at least.

Anyway, the ecological park is just a large botanical garden, complete with ponds, flowers, and a lot of wildlife. It’s beautiful and a really relaxing place to walk – a tiny slice of nature. Really all of the New Territories are much less crowded than the city and worth the exploration.

When I lived in Hong Kong, my dad used to make us go hike around reservoirs all around the New Territories. There are a lot of places where you can get out and enjoy nature – don’t feel like you just need to be confined to the city.

Riding the Waves

I’ve already written about how much we enjoyed the Star Ferry. One more note if you’re trying to get away from the crowds – grab a ferry to somewhere, anywhere, during the middle of the day – and you should be able to find the peace and quiet you might be seeking.

Hong Kong is a beautiful harbor city, so getting out on the water is great way to enjoy it while avoiding the crowds.

Final Thoughts

Sometimes Hong Kong’s crowds can get overwhelming. If you’re looking for some space, feel free to try out one of these options. Every time we manage to find space like this in Hong Kong it just makes us enjoy the city even more. Enjoy stepping off the beaten path!

Other Posts in this Series

Introduction

United Domestic First and LAX Star Alliance Lounge

EVA Royal Laurel Class Review

Using Public Transportation in Taiwan with a Toddler

Visiting the Taipei Zoo

Eating in Taipei

Grand Hyatt Taipei King Suite Review

A Tough Flight with a Toddler

Public Transportation in Hong Kong with a Toddler

Typical Hong Kong Tourist Activities

Hong Kong Disneyland with a Toddler

I thought I’d take a brief break in the trip report to hit on some of the typical tourist destinations in Hong Kong. As I’ve mentioned, Hong Kong is difficult to navigate with a toddler due to the crowds – most of our visits to these places were on past trips. These sites are definitely doable with toddlers but try to avoid peak times and be ready to take it slow.

Avenue of the Stars

One of the few sites we managed to hit was the Avenue of the Stars. Basically, the Tsim Sha Tsui waterfront is really nice – covering a long stretch starting at the Star Ferry terminal. Hong Kong has a pretty famous movie industry, and the Avenue of the Star’s is Hong Kong’s answer to Hollywood’s walk of fame.

A couple things make the Avenue of the Stars appealing. For starters, the views are amazing. But more importantly, the Avenue of the Stars is incredibly easy to get to – for anyone staying in TST all you have to do is walk! Every night at 8 PM the skyline lights up for the Symphony of Lights, which I find to be a little overrated but still worth a watch.

The major drawback (begin recurring theme) is that it can get really crowded. You often have to wait a few minutes to get an unobstructed view, though once you carve out a spot the view is tough to top.

Victoria Peak

The most famous tourist attraction in Hong Kong is Victoria Peak. It boasts some of the most spectacular views in Hong Kong. Most people insist you take the tram up – I tend to agree although the crowds are crazy.

I’ve been to the Peak many times – at night for drinks, during the day with family, and everything in between. I never leave disappointed. One thing people don’t necessarily know are there are a lot of hiking trails. You can hike up to the top, but once you get there you can also take short walks (up to an hour).

While these trails are still kind of crowded, they do offer a bit of respite and are great for exercise. You can always cool down in the little mall after.

The Big Buddha

The most distant tourist attraction is also the largest – literally. The Big Buddha is a very impressive…big Buddha. To get there you need to take the MTR all the way to the end of the Tung Chung line and then take a 25 minute cable car. Since you’re going so far out, there is a huge mall and cinema there (just to justify the trip if the Buddha wasn’t enough).

We went here a few summers ago. While the site was impressive, the experience was a little shaky. There were high winds when we were on the cable car which were a little disconcerting (they actually shut it down for awhile). Then after we made it back to the Tung Chung mall (Citygate Outlets) we were hit by a huge storm.

We found out later that it was actually a code black rainstorm – aka stay indoors, government orders. So we didn’t really get any iconic views of the Big Buddha (too many clouds and too many people) and the cable car wasn’t very enjoyable. We did, however, get to catch a movie at the mall!

Shopping

There are a ton of shopping options in Hong Kong. The Hyatt Regency TST we stayed at is attached to the K11 mall, which is within walking distance to the iSQUARE mall which is within walking distance to Ocean Terminal. A short ferry ride away there is the IFC mall in Central. If mall shopping is your thing, Hong Kong will not disappoint.

There are also local places to shop – local in the sense that its less commercial, though these areas can get quite touristy. The Ladies Market in Mong Kok is very well known and crowded, though you can find a good deal despite the touristy nature. Stanley Market on Hong Kong Island is a long trip, but can be worth it – it’s very unique and there’s a beach nearby in case you are feeling overcrowded.

If you’re the type, you can spend a week in Hong Kong and do nothing but shop. Obviously not my scene but we did enjoy running through the malls (M loves escalators). Prepare for crowds.

Theme Parks

There are multiple theme parks in Hong Kong – Ocean Park (the original), Noah’s Ark (for animal lovers and kids), and Disneyland (the mouse is everywhere). We went to Disneyland with M (a post in and of itself), so I’ll talk about the other two a bit here.

Noah’s Ark is based off the biblical story – the theme park has a ton of animals and a gigantic…ark. Ocean Park is part theme park part cultural part zoo/aquarium – I haven’t been there since I was a kid. Ocean Park is definitely the toughest to get to if you have a kid (you eventually have to take a bus or cab). Disneyland is off the MTR and Noah’s Ark is a ferry ride away. We’ll probably hit the other two some time in M’s life…

Final Thoughts

While Hong Kong’s main tourist attractions are very crowded, most of them are well worth a visit. Work around the crowds as much as you can and you should be fine. If you can only visit one attraction, I’d say the Peak should be at the top of many people’s lists – the views just can’t be beat. In a later post I’ll touch upon places we’ve discovered where you can get away from the crowds. But first, Disneyland!

Other Posts in this Series

Introduction

United Domestic First and LAX Star Alliance Lounge

EVA Royal Laurel Class Review

Using Public Transportation in Taiwan with a Toddler

Visiting the Taipei Zoo

Eating in Taipei

Grand Hyatt Taipei King Suite Review

A Tough Flight with a Toddler

Public Transportation in Hong Kong with a Toddler

Typical Hong Kong Tourist Activities

Hong Kong Disneyland with a Toddler

Like any metropolitan city, Hong Kong has a very extensive public transportation system. The thing I find unique about Hong Kong is that it’s system is efficient AND over-crowded at the same time (usually it’s just one or the other).

At times the crowds can be panic inducing – this makes traveling with a toddler tough at times. I just wanted to relay my experience on this trip (mostly on the MTR) and offer some suggestions for how to make things more manageable.

Airport Express – A Convenient Airport Transfer

The Airport Express is probably the easiest way to get from the airport (which is far out on Lantau Island) to Kowloon or Central. It only costs 90-100 HKD ($11-$13) and is a 24 minute ride. Trains depart at 10 or 12 minute intervals depending on the time of day.

Finding the Airport Express at the airport couldn’t be easier. Follow the signs, buy a ticket at one of the kiosks (its electronic and you use it to tap out when you exit), then wait for the train. If you have an Octopus card, which we did, it’s even easier.

The ride itself is very comfortable and we didn’t have trouble finding seats either to or from the airport. There is plenty of room for luggage as well, and luggage carts are waiting for you at the station as soon as you arrive.

My only issue with the Airport Express is the free shuttle to the hotels. Obviously I have no issue with it being free, but the shuttle can be a little…crazy. At least our trip was.

We took the K3 shuttle which services the Holiday Inn Golden Mile, Hyatt Regency Hong Kong, Regal Kowloon Hotel, Hotel ICON, Hotel Nikko, InterContinental Grand Stanford, and Kowloon Shangri-La Hotel. Normally this wouldn’t be a problem, but our shuttle was pretty full leaving Kowloon Station.

This turned into a big problem at the Holiday Inn – a huge family wanted to get on to get to the airport (we’re talking six adults, four teenagers, some little ones) – but nobody had gotten off yet. I’ll just let the picture do the talking:

Needless to say, I was happy to get off at the next stop, between flying luggage and an exhausted sleeping toddler it just was pretty overwhelming. So I think the free shuttle to and from Kowloon Station can be a little bit luck of the draw, just be aware.

On our return trip to go home, we decided to take a taxi to Kowloon station to avoid all of that. One neat thing about the Airport Express is that you can check in for your flights at the train station, so you don’t even need to lug your bags with you all the way to the airport.

There was no line at the in-town check in, and while I was a little worried about our bags getting there, I still preferred checking our bags at the train station instead of taking them all the way to the airport. It all worked out great our bags were happily waiting for us in Chicago. I didn’t even see them loading luggage onto our train so they must teleport them to the airport or something. Pretty cool.

The MTR – Well Run, Crowded, Not Super Toddler Friendly

Full disclosure: I lived in Hong Kong for a couple of years and it was the first public transportation system I was introduced to so I love the MTR (subway system). I think it is clean, well run, and efficient.

It also is incredibly overcrowded and downright scary in rush hour. It feels crowded during off peak times. A lot of the central areas in Hong Kong feel like this, so it’s something you need to prepare yourself for.

Since we have Octopus cards I never actually bought a fare at a MTR station. If you’re going to do any type of traveling, I’d recommend getting the card – you can get it at any MTR station for a $50HKD refundable deposit (plus whatever money you load). You can use your Octopus card to pay at a lot of stores, which won’t earn you any points on your credit card but I generally choose convenience and speed in Hong Kong over a couple of points.

You really want to avoid rush hour (pretty standard times though a bit later than most of the States) on the MTR, especially the interchange at Admiralty between the Tsuen Wan and Island lines. You will literally get out of the train and stand in a mass of people that gradually moves across the platform until you reach the train on the other side. Not fun as an adult, definitely not fun with a little kid.

I won’t lie, traveling with a toddler on the MTR can be tough. It’s tough to figure out where the handicap accessible elevators are – there are so many exits that it’s tough to find the right one. The Tsim Sha Tsui/East Tsim Sha Tsui underground complex alone has like a billion exits (okay, 25+).

With the crowds, you kind of want to figure out what entrance/exit you’re going to use beforehand so you don’t have to be fighting crowds and figuring out where you are going at the same time. Once you get in, it’s not always easy to find your way down to the platform either – there are some elevators that are actually gated with turnstiles, while other times you go through the turnstile first and then find the elevator.

Our solution? We did a lot of stroller carrying, stroller breaking down, etc. etc. At some point it’s not worth it to find an elevator. Obviously this doesn’t work for wheelchairs, but it works just fine for toddlers. What we didn’t do was let M wander around the station herself – it’s just too crazy in there.

The MTR is definitely doable if you avoid peak times, just be prepared to deal with crowds. Thankfully there is another great option for parents of toddlers to get between Tsim Sha Tsui and Central (two of the main areas most tourists visit) – the Star Ferry.

The Star Ferry – Slightly Less Crowded and Fun For All

The Star Ferry is a great option between TST and Central. You have to walk to the Star Ferry pier (near Ocean Terminal), but once you get there everything is pretty straightforward. You can take a ferry to either Wan Chai or Central, and it costs less than $3HKD per journey – that’s less than 50 cents!

I think I read on the Star Ferry website or something that there is something “romantic” about the Star Ferry. While I can’t say I agree, I’d definitely say that the Star Ferry just screams iconic Hong Kong. Better yet, it is a less crowded, cheaper, and for a toddler, more convenient way to get between TST and Central.

The reason I think its more convenient is because it’s less crowded, which is huge. No crush of people, no worrying if your toddler can get lost, we let M walk on and off the ferry when she wanted to. Another big point to consider is the ferry terminal on the Central side is right by the IFC – a huge mall with tons of eating options that is one of the main draws on that side of the harbor. Finally, I find the ride across the harbor to be much more peaceful than taking the MTR – with much better views!

One drawback of riding the Star Ferry is to get to the upper deck you’re going to have to do some stroller carrying, there is absolutely no elevator access. You could always ride on the lower deck if you’d like. When you are walking down to access the ferry, stay to the right with your stroller where the going is smooth and not bumpy.

In the end, M loved the Star Ferry. In fact, we rode back and forth a few times just for fun – during off peak hours too so we had a ton of space to spread out. So not only is it a great transportation option, it can entertain toddlers like mine for almost an hour – no small feat!

Summary of Things to Consider if You’re Trying to Get Around Hong Kong with a Toddler

Here are some quick thoughts I have about traveling with a toddler in Hong Kong.

– Off peak hours are your friend

– Walking can be a better option, but the streets get super crowded as well so be prepared for some slow going with a stroller (I went out once on my own and cut my travel time in half!)

– A lot of times, walking underground is a good option. You can avoid waiting at crowded intersections and generally get to where you want to go – Tsim Sha Tsui station in particular is very extensive

– There aren’t any hard and fast car seat rules and most (not all) taxi drivers will be impatient with you if you try to put one in (this from my relatives). As a result, be prepared to hold your child in taxis

– There’s no way getting around carrying a stroller from time to time unless you want to take very long detours

– The Star Ferry is a more relaxing option and sometimes can be more convenient

– The Airport Express is a great way to get to the airport – check your bags at the train station to reduce stress further

– Since everything is so crowded, be careful if your child is walking on their own, it’s quite easy to get run over

Final Thoughts

Bringing a toddler to Hong Kong totally changed the way I look at the public transportation system. It’s great, but the crowds mean you need to plan a little more carefully. The MTR and Star Ferry are great for getting you where you want to go and you can hold your child in your lap in a taxi in a pinch, but it’s definitely more difficult to navigate the city and less family friendly than Taipei. My one hard and fast rule? Don’t transfer from the Tsuen Wan line to the Island line during rush hour under any circumstances! That goes for you even if you don’t have kids!

Other Posts in this Series

Introduction

United Domestic First and LAX Star Alliance Lounge

EVA Royal Laurel Class Review

Using Public Transportation in Taiwan with a Toddler

Visiting the Taipei Zoo

Eating in Taipei

Grand Hyatt Taipei King Suite Review

A Tough Flight with a Toddler

Public Transportation in Hong Kong with a Toddler

Typical Hong Kong Tourist Activities

Hong Kong Disneyland with a Toddler