Vancouver is like the one that got away. Whenever I find myself missing that unforgettable meal, that beautiful landscape, that amazing hotel, they often belong to Vancouver.
We set up shop for our three-day jaunt in a corner room at the Four Seasons, with two walls of windows overlooking downtown. It was early December, before the thermometer had hit rock bottom, but just as the holiday season was making itself known. The first destination after checking in was the German-Style Christmas Night Market, for some Glühwein and Bratwurst. As the steam from the wine and the smoke from the meat mingled with the choir singing Christmas carols, I officially felt the spirit of the holidays.
The first of our day trips was to Vancouver Island. We caught a glimpse of our first wild seal on the ferry over- little did we know that at fisherman’s wharf, not far from the pier, you could hand-feed semi-domesticated seals. In the off season, most vendors that lined the water were closed, except for the most important one- the guys selling halibut to feed the residents. Armed with a plate full of fish, I leaned over the dock and one… then another head appeared through the murk to pluck the fish from our hands. I spent more and more money refilling my fish stock, but the experience of hand-feeding the seals was truly priceless.
At Oak Bay and Estevan village, there was quaint shopping abound, with artisanal chocolatiers, flower shops, and county stores. Beers at the traditional English Pub Penny Farthing capped off the day. A few locals also recommended watching the incoming storm as “not-to-be -missed”, but we preferred getting home in one piece.
Dinner that night was at Yew, the hotel restaurant. When I tell you that I have never wished for more stomachs as much as I did here , it is the highest compliment. We had an octopus starter, the seafood tower for two, and some lobster mash on the side. Amazing. The tower alone would have been enough for the two of us, bursting with oysters, crab salad, tuna, salmon, scallops…..all the beauty of the sea on a platter.
The next day, we travelled 90 minutes by bus to Harrison Hot Springs. The options here are varied- you can try your luck at scoping Sasquatch, take a wildlife tour to look for bald eagles, or just lounge in the natural hot springs for the day. We did a bit of it all, plus sampled the most delicious candied salmon and roasted hazelnuts I have ever eaten. The food came directly from the hand of the man that made it- every thing he passed a bite of , we bought- as it was too delicious not to.
We dedicated the final morning to North Vancouver for some nature. The most amazing thing about Vancouver is how quickly you are transported-20 minutes from downtown lies the most beautiful mountains, hiking, and bird watching you could ask for. Hiking to the salmon hatchery, we saw Bald Eagles, huge old-growth Firs, and herons fishing in the river below the hatchery.
The Capilano Suspension bridge park and the Cliffwalk were an easy walk from there, and walking through the forest from this new perspective allowed us a glimpse into the life of a bird…though I doubt they feel the fear that I did in the picture below.
We relocated to a Deluxe Executive Room Wedgewood Hotel in Robson Square for the final night of our stay, a beautiful hotel flush with Wedgewood pieces, a balcony, and a soaker tub for two in the bedroom.
This new location was a quick walk away from the dock to catch the tugboat over to Granville Island. The farmers market overflowed with FRESH; flowers, pastries, makings of delicious things.
After a taproom tasting at Granville Brewery, we hopped another tugboat ride back into town- this time, taking the metro to Gastown. The final night’s hurrah included delicious Steak and Guiness Pie Dinner at The Irish Heather GastroPub , a bubble bath in the soaker tub back at the hotel, and a sad goodbye to a shockingly beautiful city.