Day 2 in Rome began with a fabulous buffet breakfast at the Waldorf’s Rome Cavaleri, complete with fresh cheeses, assorted meats, pastries, fruits, and an entire of specialty jams and spreads to choose from.
Selections from the buffet at Rome Cavalleri
Back to Barberini Square, and an aimless wander later- happen upon major monument number…um…we had lost count by now.
Tomb of the Unknown Soldier
Follow the masses from I Fiori Imperiali and the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier to Piazza del Campidoglio. On top of Capitoline Hill, government headquarters are currently housed here, but the piazza was originally designed by Michelangelo to face away from the past of the Roman Forum, and into Italy’s future.
Wedding photos in Piazza del Campidoglio
It seems a popular gathering place now, and a beautiful vantage point to the ruins that so many people come here to see.
View of the Roman Forum from Capitoline Hill
While I recommend either buying your tickets online or at the Roman Forum over waiting in line at the Colosseum, I do also recommend expending your energy at the Colosseum first, and then going as long as you can at the Forum thereafter.
Looking up at Palentine Hill, one of the oldest parts of the city, and fuel for many Roman mythological traditions
Maybe I was jetlagged, maybe we suck at directions…whatever the case, I found myself thoroughly frustrated from navigating the Forum. Don’t get me wrong- it is truly awe-inspiring imagining the historical events that transpired here, but once you begin to veer towards Palentine hill, the directions get a bit murkier, and the signs become fewer and farther between.
Neronian cryptoporticus, the 130 meter long underground passageway which once connected different parts of the Imperial Palace
By the time we found our way out and to the Colosseum, I was in serious need of a drink. Keep in mind: I have summitted mountains while fighting camels for position, bargained with soukmasters in Cairo, and and taught 2 year olds across many nations. I am in good shape, and can walk from one side of Manhattan to the next without batting an eyelash. Mark my word- navigating the Roman Forum is stressful without a guide.
Colosseum interior
The Colosseum is the next stop on the seemingly never ending treasure trove of historical wonders in Rome. Visitors have the option of booking a night tour online in advance , but these sell out quickly. We did not reserve one of these, but honestly felt like we got a solid understanding of the Colosseum without this.
A model of the Colosseum’s pulley systems, used to hoist wild animals to and from the hypogeum
My favorite element of the gallery were the models of the underground, complete with wild animals on pulley systems, which had been used to transport the lions, tiger, and bears into the arena. Seeing mechanical superiority paired with savage history put “modern” life into perspective quite quickly.
A pretty great snack with fabulous conversation on “Gay street”
After such an intense morning, we happened upon nearby “gay street” for a cocktail at bar “Coming out“; a much needed interlude from a very militant few hours. Small bars line this controversial street east of the Colosseum (officially named Via San Giovanni in Laterano), where much debate has ensued with the Roman Catholic majority over their more visible homosexual presence. We had a very interesting discussion with our server, who had moved to Rome from Sicily, but was still struggling with the oppression of the capitol 7 years later. Apparently, he is still in search of “American boy #52″….
The Baths of Caracalla
Refueled, we began our rather lengthy walk to the Baths of Caracalla. This is one of the best preserved ancient thermal complexes, and you can easily imagine how spectacular these baths once could have been. You can also see remnants of the extravagant mosaic floors and decorations, brought to life by the renderings on the signage.
Rendering courtesy of crystalinks.com
Grateful for his win, this humble player thanks his one true judge.
Stroll back towards Circus Maximus (for which, you need a lot of imagination to picture the grandeur and events that have long passed), then on to something that had been calling me since watching Roman Holiday on the plane ride over.
Bocca di Verita, which clearly is on the fritz.
Basilica of Santa Maria on Via della Greca stops letting people enter 15 minutes before closing, which happened to be the exact time we walked up. Discouraged by the two people the guard had just turned away, we almost turned back. With a cheeky smile and a “shh” from said guard, he opened the gate for us- and we still have both our hands.
Happy hour freebies!
Directly across the Tiber lies Trastavere, a district where we had been guided to eat like a local. Oh, how I love a spritz and a happy hour, Italian style. We bar hopped for a bit to regain strength for the main meal, or two…
KMZero Trestevere- mini farmer’s market anf wine/beer/snack bar
…Then stumbled into our favorite find in the area. KMZero is a farmer’s market/wine/snack bar hybrid, serving tasting plates of the farmers’ goodies paired with local wines and beers. Our server spoke great English, and described my selected beer as “artichoke and rosemary”. Cheese was made by” that guy over there”, and the spreads and sausages by the “other guy”. At the end of the meal, I decided to buy about a pound of cherries to take with us. When I passed the bag over to weigh for pricing, she said “that’s it? Ok, you just take”.
A small sampler plate of homemade goodies- only 3 Euros
You can also buy whole bottles of wine and drink them in house for no mark up. Everyone seemed to know each other, and we bought a bottle of “whatever that family over there is drinking” to take back to the hotel.
Interior of KMZero in Trastevere
We enjoyed the night’s final few courses at Ditta Trinchetti Osteria, where we had steak tartar peppered with capers and a little bit of parmesan, and a giant ball of creamy, oozy burrata. The meal was delicious and the atmosphere lively, and we popped juicy fresh cherries into our mouths on the taxi ride back to the hotel, exhausted but completely satiated.
Ditta Trinchetti Osteria in Trastevere
