We took the 9:00 am train from Milan to Rome, which took 3 hours on a Trenitalia Frecciarossa. A 30 minute taxi ride brought us to the Waldorf Astoria’s Rome Cavalleri, where we would be staying for the next 4 days.
Our standard room at the Rome Cavalleri
The hotel is a bit removed from downtown Rome, but provides a complimentary shuttle into town, and fabulous views from the restaurant and pool (and our room, which overlooked both).
The view from our room overlooking Rome
Taking the early train allowed us plenty of time to begin exploring, so we bathed and headed directly out. The hotel shuttle makes two official stops- by the Western edge of Borghese park (home of Galleria Borghese), and in Barberini square, which is the more central (and final) stop. From there, we walked down Via del Tritone and happened upon our first major monument, Trevi fountain.
Trevi fountain- don’t forget to throw your coin and wish to return!
We had booked an evening admission to the Vatican Museum, which luckily is only available on Fridays. Our 7:30 tickets allowed enough time for a slow meander across the city to get a lay of the land, passing the Pantheon, Piazza Navonna, and our first glimpse of the Vatican from up the Tiber river at Ponte Umberto I.
View from Ponte Umberto I
We chose to eat close to the Vatican, weighing location and the expediency heavier than food.
Mozzarella at Cafe Risorgimento
It is hard to not behave like a child when there is something so taunting just out of arm’s reach. We had purchased our tickets online (which incurred a fee, but saved waiting on the line: well worth it in my eyes). We tried to avert our eyes on the fast path to Capella Sistina, but the day’s fading light added texture to everything.
The sun wants to paint and scupt, too
Masterpiece after masterpiece on display, yet on we forged to the main event, and were rewarded with the lost jaw-dropping work of art I have ever seen. Something wonderful about the early evening light was that it picked up the golds speckled throughout the Chapel, and the room positively glowed. By sitting on the room’s perimeter, digesting the thousands of vignettes and absorbing the grandiosity of this undertaking, you can look closely at the wall behind you and see exactly how many brushstrokes it took to make this miracle.
Photo courtesy of Wikipedia
Sala di Constantino‘s ceiling depicts the triumph of Christianity, and the dizzying use of perspective almost made me fall to my knees.
Ceiling of Sala di Constantino
The mastery of technique, the understanding of the human body, and the quality of Italy’s light that so inspired me thus far was very evident in every room, truly an embarrassment of riches.
Raphael Room’s ceiling artwork
You can also see more religious pieces from modern masters such as Munch, Matisse, Dali, even El Anatsui.
Mimmo Paladino’s “Sorgente”
On these Firday evening openings, there is even a classical concert surrounded by sculptures included in the price of admission.
Courtyard of the Vatican
Upon exiting the museum, we looped around to Old Bridge Gelateria for our requisite doppio gusto, then to see Piazza San Pietro.
A Fountain in St Peter’s Square
We would return to see St Peter’s Basilica during the day later in the trip, but the square is magical at night as well.
St Peter’s Basilica
After about six hours in Rome, we had already taken a large bite out of the city’s cultural delicacies. And it was only day 1….
