Peru hotel question

[Suzie]

We are staying in greater Cusco area for 5 nights in June. Originally, we had planned first night in Aguas Calientes in order to get early start for Machu Picchu, three nights in Urubamba and the last night in Cusco as we have an early flight the next morning. Now that I have enough points with SPG and have discovered two beautiful properties - one in Urubamba and one in Cusco - I'd like to use the 5th night free feature for our stay. This requires us to stay in one location and I am hoping someone can offer some guidance as to which location would be the best for sightseeing? Urubamba or Cusco? Or is better to just spend a few more points and stay in two locations? We are planning on renting a car.

Thank you for any help!

 

[smittytabb]

We are staying in greater Cusco area for 5 nights in June. Originally, we had planned first night in Aguas Calientes in order to get early start for Machu Picchu, three nights in Urubamba and the last night in Cusco as we have an early flight the next morning. Now that I have enough points with SPG and have discovered two beautiful properties - one in Urubamba and one in Cusco - I'd like to use the 5th night free feature for our stay. This requires us to stay in one location and I am hoping someone can offer some guidance as to which location would be the best for sightseeing? Urubamba or Cusco? Or is better to just spend a few more points and stay in two locations? We are planning on renting a car.

Thank you for any help!

Both Urubamba and Cusco are interesting. I have been to both twice and there is a lot more to see in Cusco. My bigger concern is how you are going to have enough time to do Machu Picchu justice if you are coming from either one. The first time I did Machu Picchu I stayed in Aguas Calientes and the second time I actually stayed at the Sanctuary Lodge right there in order to have more time and to be able to easily see it the second day. Even in Aguas Calientes you are a bus ride up and it takes a little time. I guess in order to do this well, it would be harder to take day trips from Cusco or Urubamba only, but everyone has their priorities. Also I would just add that the driving is tricky and I have never driven it myself. Both times I took Peru Rail from Ollantaytambo, just 20 km from Urubamba to Aguas Calientes and then the bus up to the site. Personally, I think the train trip is pretty fun and a highlight of the trip. Hope this helps.

 

[Suzie]

Thank you @smittytabb! This is exactly the kind of info I was hoping for. I did feel like I was trying to tailor my trip around the 5th night free rather than the itinerary I really wanted - so this cinches it and I am bagging that idea. We were planning on driving to Aguas Calientes and then the bus the next morning. Are you saying the drive from Ollantaytambo to AC is tricky, or driving in Cusco area in general?

The train does sound like it would be fun.

Thank you so much for your insight!

 

[smittytabb]

Thank you @smittytabb! This is exactly the kind of info I was hoping for. I did feel like I was trying to tailor my trip around the 5th night free rather than the itinerary I really wanted - so this cinches it and I am bagging that idea. We were planning on driving to Aguas Calientes and then the bus the next morning. Are you saying the drive from Ollantaytambo to AC is tricky, or driving in Cusco area in general?

The train does sound like it would be fun.

Thank you so much for your insight!

As I said, I have never been on the roads from Ollantaytambo to AC as I have always taken the train, but in general you are in the mountains and it is developing country mountain driving. Everyone has a different notion of what a hard drive is of course, and depending on how much traveling you've done around the world, you may feel differently than I do. I prefer to have locals drive me or I take the public transportation in a lot of the world, but that is my preference. Get on Lonely Planet or Thorn tree forums and see what people are saying. It can be tricky for example driving at night outside the cities and you will be doing some country driving. Again, it depends on how well informed you are about the conditions. A lot of Americans just rent a car because it seems normal to do so. A lot of places it is not always the best choice and again, make sure you know what you are choosing. It might be right for you, but not for me. And again, it is all about what you are used to. I've spent a lot of time in Latin America and just prefer not to drive there.

 

[smittytabb]

Thank you @smittytabb! This is exactly the kind of info I was hoping for. I did feel like I was trying to tailor my trip around the 5th night free rather than the itinerary I really wanted - so this cinches it and I am bagging that idea. We were planning on driving to Aguas Calientes and then the bus the next morning. Are you saying the drive from Ollantaytambo to AC is tricky, or driving in Cusco area in general?

The train does sound like it would be fun.

Thank you so much for your insight!

And I just saw your profile post about altitude sickness. Cusco as I mentioned is the highest part of the trip. If you are planning to stay there anytime at all, I would see if the hotel offers oxygen in the room. That might make a big difference if you are prone to altitude sickness. If not, it might be a consideration to stay lower in the Urubamba Valley. The last time I was in Cusco I had just been to Bhutan so I was already adapted and had no trouble. I usually have more trouble with the medication than the illness so coca tea is all I ever use at altitude in South America.

 

[Suzie]

As I said, I have never been on the roads from Ollantaytambo to AC as I have always taken the train, but in general you are in the mountains and it is developing country mountain driving. Everyone has a different notion of what a hard drive is of course, and depending on how much traveling you've done around the world, you may feel differently than I do. I prefer to have locals drive me or I take the public transportation in a lot of the world, but that is my preference. Get on Lonely Planet or Thorn tree forums and see what people are saying. It can be tricky for example driving at night outside the cities and you will be doing some country driving. Again, it depends on how well informed you are about the conditions. A lot of Americans just rent a car because it seems normal to do so. A lot of places it is not always the best choice and again, make sure you know what you are choosing. It might be right for you, but not for me. And again, it is all about what you are used to. I've spent a lot of time in Latin America and just prefer not to drive there.

Thanks. We've done it both ways. We tend to rent if we are touring around outside of metropolitan areas and have had much success except for the fender bender in Switzerland when my husband backed into a pole. In Morocco we hired a driver and enjoyed that experience also. My son and I just got back from South Africa where we rented a car with no problems (the proprietor gave us "get out of jail" free cards just in case we got the shake down), but happy to report no issues. We have hired a driver for India later this year - no way we would try to drive there!

So, I think we are pretty aware, but you never quite know until you get there! Thanks for the heads up.

 

[Brian]

I'm pretty sure that you can only take the train to and from Aguas Caliente. At least that is what they told us when we were there and looking for the otherwise ubiquitous dude to drive us somewhere else. Luckily the train was not sold out at that point.

Unless you are doing one of the mountain hikes with limited departure times, I wouldn't worry about getting up to Macchu Picchu early, since it is super crowded and foggy. Even though I did get up there early, I liked it better around 3 PMish, when the crowds had thinned out and the sun was hitting the ruins. I would stay a night ahead of time in Ollantaytambo, aim for a mid morningish arrival at Macchu Picchu, then take one of the last two trains back to either Ollantaytambo or Cusco.

Also, the people there drive like death wish addled maniacs, so I would rent a car only if you really really like driving.

 

[Suzie]

I'm pretty sure that you can only take the train to and from Aguas Caliente. At least that is what they told us when we were there and looking for the otherwise ubiquitous dude to drive us somewhere else. Luckily the train was not sold out at that point.

Unless you are doing one of the mountain hikes with limited departure times, I wouldn't worry about getting up to Macchu Picchu early, since it is super crowded and foggy. Even though I did get up there early, I liked it better around 3 PMish, when the crowds had thinned out and the sun was hitting the ruins. I would stay a night ahead of time in Ollantaytambo, aim for a mid morningish arrival at Macchu Picchu, then take one of the last two trains back to either Ollantaytambo or Cusco.

Also, the people there drive like death wish addled maniacs, so I would rent a car only if you really really like driving.

Thank you, Brian. Good to know about the fog. One of the hotels I am considering in Urubamba has a train station on the property, but I was concerned that I wouldn't be at MP early enough - sounding better now. Is it worth it to spend the extra on the fancier train?

Thank you for taking the time to comment. Driving may not be in my future in Peru!

 

[Brian]

Thank you, Brian. Good to know about the fog. One of the hotels I am considering in Urubamba has a train station on the property, but I was concerned that I wouldn't be at MP early enough - sounding better now. Is it worth it to spend the extra on the fancier train?

Personally, I wouldn't spring for a fancier train, the regular train was fine, and even that was pretty expensive given the distance of the trip. There is a Peruvian only train which is cheaper, but they appeared serious about enforcing that.

 

[Suzie]

Personally, I wouldn't spring for a fancier train, the regular train was fine, and even that was pretty expensive given the distance of the trip. There is a Peruvian only train which is cheaper, but they appeared serious about enforcing that.

Thanks Brian. It's good to know where I can be frugal on a trip. It sounds like you enjoyed your trip.

 

[Max]

And I just saw your profile post about altitude sickness. Cusco as I mentioned is the highest part of the trip. If you are planning to stay there anytime at all, I would see if the hotel offers oxygen in the room. That might make a big difference if you are prone to altitude sickness. If not, it might be a consideration to stay lower in the Urubamba Valley. The last time I was in Cusco I had just been to Bhutan so I was already adapted and had no trouble. I usually have more trouble with the medication than the illness so coca tea is all I ever use at altitude in South America.

My question is slightly off topic, but I'm also looking to go to Peru within the next couple of years, but I'm a little nervous about preparing for altitude sickness. I know that you can never tell who will be affected by it and for how long, but do you think it would be advisable to put an extra day in my itinerary just in case I'm out of it the first day? Maybe two extra days? Also, is there enough to do in Cusco to fill up that extra day if it turns out I'm not ill?

 

[smittytabb]

My question is slightly off topic, but I'm also looking to go to Peru within the next couple of years, but I'm a little nervous about preparing for altitude sickness. I know that you can never tell who will be affected by it and for how long, but do you think it would be advisable to put an extra day in my itinerary just in case I'm out of it the first day? Maybe two extra days? Also, is there enough to do in Cusco to fill up that extra day if it turns out I'm not ill?

I have never had altitude issues and I have done the Andes and Himalayas multiple times. The only time I had issues was when I took meds in Quito and the meds made me dizzy and I fell and hit my head going to the bathroom in the middle of the night. I vowed to never take the meds again and I have done Cuzco and Bhutan since then with no problem. But some people really struggle and there is no way to know if you are one of those people. I will say that in places like Cusco there are doctors that can come to your hotel to give you meds unlike in the US if you are bad and also there are nice hotels with oxygen. I think there is plenty to do in Cusco and I have been there twice and would go back. There are archeological sites nearby to visit and a lot to see and good restaurants. It is the highest part of the trip though, so you might stay there less time if the altitude is the worry as you go down in altitude to go to Machu Picchu.

 

[Suzie]

My question is slightly off topic, but I'm also looking to go to Peru within the next couple of years, but I'm a little nervous about preparing for altitude sickness. I know that you can never tell who will be affected by it and for how long, but do you think it would be advisable to put an extra day in my itinerary just in case I'm out of it the first day? Maybe two extra days? Also, is there enough to do in Cusco to fill up that extra day if it turns out I'm not ill?

I was down for a couple of days when I got it on Mt. Bolivar. I didn't take any meds or see a doctor, just tried to work through it - not pleasant. Granted, this was about 25 years ago.

For Cusco, my plan is to fly into Cusco and head right to Machu Picchu area to acclimate and work my way back to Cusco. I'm not going to take any meds beforehand - hopefully this is a good strategy.